Note: I give distances where possible in the trail descriptions below. All distances and notes on elevation lost/gained are cumulative from the beginning of the trail. Photos are at the end of the post for those of you want to skip the text!
Cocop is a small village nestled in a high valley east of Nebaj. You can reach Cocop from Rio Azul, Pulay, Pexla, and Nebaj. I’ve done all of those except the trail from Pexla. I’d skip the road from Nebaj which is gravel and a little dull to walk along compared to the others. Starting at Pulay and ending at Rio Azul is a nice way to go. Starting at Pulay and going trough Pexla to Cocop and then out to Rio Azul is another much longer option but probably do-able in a day. I haven’t looked for it but word is there’s a hospedaje in Cocop as well, so you could break that hike into two days, the first day would be much longer.
From Nebaj:
Distance: 5.75 km
Total Elevation Gained: 410 m
Total Elevation Lost: 140 m
The route is a gravel road and all up hill, except for a little downhill after a false summit before the final ascent and the last half kilometer into town. There are some nice views into the Nebaj valley on the way up and very nice views down into Cocop and the Rio Azul valley as you descend the last little bit into Cocop. There’s not much mud but if the sun is out you’re exposed to it the whole way and the gravel makes for a hard walking surface.
Start out facing the church in Nebaj, turn 90 degrees to your left and walk to the corner of the plaza. Then turn 90 degrees to the right to walk along the street that passes to the left of the church. Keep walking. The road will bend to the left and then you’ll have to turn right to descend to a bridge. After that stay to left at the first fork and then turn left at the next junction (there’s a sign here pointing the way).
Alternately if you don’t turn right to reach the first bridge you’ll pass a slaughter house by the river, and then come to a second bridge which will also get you there. Just stay to the right until you T into the other road and then go left. This route is slightly shorter and muddier.
From Pulay:
Distance: 2 km (from Pulay to junction with trail from Rio Azul), 3.2 km (from Pulay to Cocop)
Total Elevation Gained: 120 m (to junction), 250 m (to Cocop)
Total Elevation Lost: 200 m (to junction), 200 m (to Cocop)
Catch a micro to Pulay from in front of the Hotel Villa Nebaj. The village of Pulay is distributed among several hamlets on the right side of the road. The first is before a big gravel pit, the second after, and a third is set back from the road near the second. Tell the driver or the ayudante that you want to be let off the bus just before the gravel pit. This should put you on the last of several wide trails/narrow roads into the village. Stay straight on this trail through the village. After a few minutes the trail will bend to the left and then to the right again and you’ll find yourself climbing gently out of town up a pleasant valley with houses scattered along the trail. At 0.8 km the main trail will bend to the right into the woods and a large side trail will head up to the left. Stick to the main trail and you will quickly emerge from the woods into rolling terrain with pastures and milpa. At a four way junction (the trails don’t meet at right angles) go straight. The trail will then bend left towards a little settlement and then right again to pass in front of it. You’ll then head up a straight, tree-lined section of trail that leads to a junction at 1.2 km. Here the main trail turns 90 deg to the left and a side trail heads straight through milpa to a saddle. Go straight on the side trail. In the saddle you’ll enter the woods and then the trail will descend steeply, switching back through the woods. Eventually you will emerge from the woods into a very steep milpa on the side of the valley with fabulous views. The valley drains to the north (right) towards the town of Rio Azul. To the south (left) two valleys and their streams join and you can look up both of them. You’ll see the town of Cocop in the right (western) of these two. The trail will descend through the milpa and a little bit of brush, switching back several times to reach the valley bottom. In the valley it joins with a trail heading up the left valley. Take a hard right here (heading down stream) and almost immediately you’ll come to a bridge made out of two logs. Cross it and you’re at the junction with the trail from Cocop to Rio Azul (this happens at 2 km). Turn left to head up towards Cocop or right to head down to Rio Azul
From Rio Azul:
Distance: 2.3 km (from Rio Azul to junction with trail from Pulay), 3.5 km (from Rio Azul to Cocop)
Total Elevation Gained: 180 m (to junction), 310 m (to Cocop)
Total Elevation Lost: 40 m (to junction), 40 m (to Cocop)
I’ve only done this in the other direction (down from Cocop) and I didn’t take notes so these directions might be a little lacking (sorry.) That said, I don’t think it’s too tricky. Catch a micro in front of the Hotel Via Nebaj heading towards Pulay, Cotzal or Chajul. The town of Rio Azul is on a little nob east of the river named Rio Azul which you will cross before reaching the town. Ask to be dropped in the middle of the town (it’s not big). There are several large trails/narrow roads that join the main road on the right. Pick a promising looking one and follow it down into the valley. I think just about all of them will join in the valley south of town. You’ll have to cross several cement bridges to reach the right bank (as you face up stream) of the Rio Azul. The trail parallels the river, mostly staying on the right side all the way up to Cocop. It’s a well used trail and is consequently both wide and muddy most of the way to Cocop.
Leaving Cocop:
To Nebaj: just follow the road. You can see it clearly cut into the hill that looms over town to the west.
To Rio Azul: Head down hill through town. As you go down the trail will mostly stay on the left side of the river (near Cocop it crosses back and forth several times). At one point fairly close to the town of Rio Azul you will stray a little ways from the river before descending back into the valley and (just before town) crossing the river on a cement bridge. After crossing the river the trail will fork. I’m pretty sure either fork will take you into town. I went left and then wandered through town to the road.
To Pulay: Head downhill through town on the trail to Rio Azul. Be on the lookout for a point where another valley and stream join yours from the right. When you can look down at this junction you’ll also have a good view of the trail to Pulay side hilling up through the milpa on the far side of the valley just bellow the river junction. Just below where the two rivers join look for a bridge on the right in a flat grassy section of trail. Cross the bridge and follow the trail upstream. Take your first left (a hard left onto a smaller trail through milpa). This trail will ascend through milpa eventually entering some woods (still ascending) to gain a saddle and then descend slightly through more milpa. Shortly after the saddle you’ll join another larger trail. Go straight (not right) at this junction at the next junction go straight and then just stick to the main trail and you’ll end up in Pulay.
To Pexla: I haven’t done this one but in theory there’s a trail that climbs to a pass east of town (opposite direction as the road) and then descends into Pexla.
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- View of Cocop from the road above
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- Cocop
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- View up the valley towards Cocop from the Pulay Trail
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- The parents resting near the junction of the trails from Pulay and Rio Azul
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- My dad taking a picture
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- The muddy trail from Rio Azul to Cocop
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- Firewood headed down trail to Rio Azul
NOTE: You can always click on the photos to see larger (nicer) versions.
