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axis.awerness

NOTE: Due to all the snow Feb 9, is cancelled and a class has been added on March 2nd.

This course offers the intermediate/advanced dancer a richer and more subtle understanding of leading and following. Through the use of axis awareness students will refine their communication in the dance, as well as explore musical expression.

We will playfully experiment with volcadas, split weight, and other vocabulary, with the goal of incorporating these movements into a connected and intimate social tango experience.

Saturdays 10:30 AM to 12:00 Noon – February 2, 9, 16,  23, and March 2.
At the New England Tango Academy
620 Cambridge Street, Cambridge, MA 02141

$70 for all four if preregistered by January 27th.
$80 for all four at start of first class (February 2nd)
$25 for drop in attendance.

Teachers  Ethan ethan@plunkettworks.com and Marc  sfqueertanguero@yahoo.com

Facebook event  https://www.facebook.com/events/405738682841331/

February 2010 Update

Hello there friends and family!  There is a pretty good chance that you wandered over here from our wedding page.  We kept this blog during the summer of 2008 when Jennie’s summer fellowship brought us to live in the western highlands of Guatemala for 3 months.  We have not kept it updated since then, but you are welcome to look around and enjoy the pictures.  There is always a chance we will return to these pages to chronicle our next adventure…

Hart River

Ethan here.  I’ve been back in Massachusetts for a while now and apologize for taking so long to post anything on my Yukon adventures.  I flew into Whitehorse on midnight of August 12, met up with my brother and spent the next day packing, enjoying a little backyard BBQ, and playing Settler’s of Catan.  On the 14th we drove up the Klondike highway to the Dempster highway and the north end of the Tombstones Territorial park.   We set up camp near the highway at dusk in a downpour (a sign of things to come) and the next day hiked into Lomond lake.   The next 14 days we paddled our way downstream following Lomond Creek to the West Hart, to the Hart, to the Peel to Fort McPherson.  2 rides and 3 days of hitching got us back to our car with just enough time for an overnight to Grizzly lake in the Tombstones. One more night in Whitehorse and then a long red eye and my summer travels (and my summer) were over.

Highlights: navigating the narrow willow lined creek our first day on Lomond (fun at times a drag at others);  running nice rapids lower on the Lomond and on the Hart; floating past and occasionally hiking through beautiful mountains;catching and eating Greyling; getting a couple great rides on our hitch hike back to the car; Seth’s singing; and 6 hours of sun on day 9.

Low points: rain, rain, rain, long, slow lake peel, Seth’s singing, and waiting for those rides.

There’s a lot of photos so I’ve included just a few highlights here and put the rest on Flickr.

August Field Work

I have been meaning to post a few photos of my last month of fieldwork.  I conducted a series of focus groups with women in five different communities about their experiences with the goat project.  I was also involved in a training of health & nutrition leaders regarding consumption of goat milk with a few of my favorite supervisors.

Media Luna

Media Luna

These are the women of my final focus group, and the supervisor who translated for us.  They were a lot of fun, very friendly and forthcoming with their opinions.

Don Hector

Don Hector

I learned a lot from Don Hector while I was in Guatemala, and have a lot of respect for his experience with and approach to community development.

All of the women had at least one child with them, and things turned chaotic after the first hour.  One woman had her husband with her to take notes because she was about to go into labor pretty much any minute.

Part of the training involved teaching the women to measure middle-upper arm circumfrance (MUAC).  None of the children liked this very much, because when you pull up their sleeve they are convinced they are going to get a shot!

This little one was pretty brave though.

That is all for Guatemala, for now.  Yukon photos from Ethan coming soon!

I can hardly believe that it is September!  Classes started today, and it may take a week or two to narrow it down to four.  I’m excited for “Micro Development Economics: Poverty Reduction Policy Analysis for Developing Countries” and “International Humanitarian Policy and Public Health”, but still deciding among classes on epidemiology, comparative politics, development aid and accounting/budgeting for non-profits.  I also have to start my thesis and begin the job search pretty much immediately…wish me luck.

Ethan flies home from Alaska on Friday.  Periodic updates have assured me that he and Seth are alive and having a good time, though it sounds like the weather has been wet.

Our friend Meggin back in Western MA has started a new food blog that focuses on recipes and advice for eating locally and seasonally.  Visit Happy Valley Locavore and check it out!

One of the ways Ethan spent his time this summer was as a volunteer teaching English to 4-6 year old kids at the Centro Explorativo in Nebaj every afternoon at 4 PM.  Hopefully he will tell you more about this experience later.  Our friend Chris, a Peace Corps volunteer in Nebaj, has set up an international book drive for the Centro.  Below is the information, and a few photos from Ethan’s last class.

Chrias has set up an Amazon Wish List so that anybody anywhere in the world can go and donate books which will be sent directly to the Centro in Nebaj, with a 501(c)3 number available for tax deductions.

The Centro Explorativo is part of an area wide Rural Education project.  To read more about the Centro, see photos of the kids, teachers, and Centro, check out their website.  The children of the Centro Explorativo need more children’s story books in Spanish as well as other reading materials!  The Centro is the closest thing Nebaj has to a library, and since opening a second Centro in a nearby aldea (village), the number of resources has been split up between the two locations.

HOW YOU CAN HELP:

1. Go to Amazon.com

2. Click at the top on ‘Gifts & Wish Lists’

3. To the right, in the tan box that says ‘Find someone’s Wish List’, type in ‘Centro Explorativo’ and click ‘go’.

4. Since there is only one wish list called ‘Centro Explorativo’, you will be taken directly to the list of books.

5. Peruse the list and buy books that you read and loved as a child, books that you think any young person would enjoy, books that you want to share with the youth of Nebaj.

6. As you add books to your shopping cart and decide to ‘check out’, you’ll notice that the address for the Centro is already online!  Once you buy the books, they’ll be sent directly here!

7. Print your receipt and use the 501(c)3 number 550866578 to get your tax deduction – Easy!

If you have any questions, feel free to drop us an email and we can put you in touch with Chris directly.

Click on the images below to see Ethan and his kids at the Centro:

Todos Santos

The weekend that Ethan left Guatemala I went to Huehuetenango to visit Eva, Lizzie & Eduardo, fellow extranjeros who were working on an evaluation project. Huehue (pronounced “way-way”) felt rather unfriendly, it is much bigger than Nebaj and walking there at night was one of the few times I felt unsafe in Guatemala. On the other hand, Huehue seems to have a lot of pastry shops were people go to eat cake and drink coffee in the afternoons, so they have that going for them.

From Huehue we went North to visit Todos Santos. Tucked into the mountains pretty far off the beaten path, Todos Santos is an interesting mix of enduring tradition and an influx of resources due to remittances and narcos. It is one of the few places in Guatemala where men still wear traditional dress. In Todos Santos it is rare to see a man in western clothing, though the young men seem to have altered the styling of the red & white striped pants to hang low, and layer gold chains over the embroidered collar of the traditional jacket. The handcraft work of Todos Santos is by far the finest that I saw in Guatemala (see examples here), and the colors (lots of bright purples, greens and blues) stand out brilliantly against the mountain backdrop and cloudy skies.

Todos Santos traditional dress

Todos Santos traditional dress

Señoras de Todos Santos

Señoras de Todos Santos

Hombres looking down on the street

Hombres looking down on the street

La Iglesia de Todos Santos

La Iglesia de Todos Santos

Señoritas de Todos Santos

The women in Todos Santos have the most gorgeous huipiles

Hombres line the park railingv

Hombres line the park railing

Market day traffic jam

Market day traffic jam

TS Chicken Bus

TS Chicken Bus

Note to travelers: Getting to Todos Santos was not easy. We over-paid for a micro from Huehue to the crossroads, and then waited until there were enough people heading from there to TS to bribe another micro to take us the rest of the way. There was an Adrenalina Tours bus in town when we arrived, so that might be the easy way to go.

Note to trekkers: One of Ethan & my regrets this trip was not finding time to do the multi-day trek between Nebaj and Todos Santos. Friends say it is spectacular and not to be missed. There is some information found here, and I have heard from several folks that Román is a great guide.

Back in the US

Just a quick update to let everyone know that I (Jennie) made it home safely.  Carolyn was a superstar and picked me up from the airport at 1 AM.  I slept like a rock in my own bed, and we enjoyed soy lattes on our little porch this morning.  It feels a little as though I have been suddenly dropped back into my own life after a 3 month absence on another planet.  I am really excited to have more than 3 pairs of pants to choose from, and to be able to brush my teeth with tap water!

Here is the latest news on Ethan’s whereabouts, as of Sunday (they called Seth’s girlfriend from the sat phone to check in):

“They have finished the hiking-in portion of the trip and are have just made it onto the Hart River.  Not much else to report because the satellite phone kept cutting out.  It’s about 150 more km from where they are down the Hart River to the confluence with the Peel River, and I think they’re planning to do a few days of hiking on this section.  Then it’s about another 100 km down the Peel River (with a portage around Aberdeen Canyon) to Taco Bar…  From there it’s about 250 km more down the Peel to Fort McPherson on the Dempster Highway.  (Map showing Hart River)”

Remember how I said to be “smart and careful”? I should follow my own advice. Yesterday my camera was stolen while I was in the market in Quiché, along with my beautiful bag from Todos Santos. As I went to turn a corner while walking through the market, I was suddenly trapped in a big throng of people and couldn’t move. When I was finally free about 30 seconds later, I looked down and realized that my bag was gone, with the camera inside. I shouted for help, but people seemed more amused than inclined to assist. Two female vendors seemed to have seen it happen, and said that the same group of men pull that trick in the market all the time. Here is what I did wrong:

  • I had my bag that held the camera loose inside another bag in my hand, instead of worn across my body.
  • After 3 months living here with nothing bad happening, I let my guard down and stopped being suspicious and thinking defensively. I should have kept a better hold on my things in the market.

The only bright side is that they didn’t get my money or my cell phone, because I keep those close on my body and not in my purse.

The saddest part is losing the photos that were on the camera, which were of me in full Nebaj traje with my friend Maria, after she brought me shopping on Saturday for my corte and faja. So lesson #3 is to download photos from your camera as often as possible.

______________

PS to my family:  I am feeling pathetic enough about this to ask that if you all want to go in on a birthday gift together, this is the closest thing to the camera I lost, the Canon SD850 IS.

Ethan is already gone and I am packing up to leave Nebaj in just a few days.  I thought I would offer a list of things I have learned living in Guatemala for 3 months that might be useful if you are traveling here.

  • The phone number for Taxi Amarilla (yellow cabs) in Guatemala City is wrong in both the Lonely Planet and Moon guides (though the guy with the old number is certainly very patient about it) The current number is: 2470-1515.
  • Safety: Friends who grew up in Guatemala City all say that the country has become more dangerous in the last 10 years, and advised me against using public transportation. The US Embassy website has plenty of warnings for travelers with which to scare you properly. I have only really felt worried for my safety here once or twice (due to my own bad decisions), but my advice is that you have to be smart and careful. Don`t make yourself a target by wearing jewelry, expensive camera equipment, etc. I keep my cell phone tucked in one side of my bra and money in the other side, advice from a Peace Corp volunteer after she was mugged and this set-up was the only reason she had money enough to get home.
  • Money: An ATM card has been the most useful, with cajeros automaticos (ATM) in all of the major cities and towns. I recommend the yellow 5B cajeros, because they don’t charge an extra fee. I brought traveler’s checks as a back-up and haven’t used them. Credit cards aren’t much use because almost everyone charges an extra fee to use them.
  • Transportation: We have used public transportation (micros and chicken buses) for all our travels, and even came around to throwing our stuff on top. While I have not had any problems, we did see a chicken bus completely overturned on the side of the highway and the papers report accidents on a daily basis.  If you dislike uncertainty and being packed in like sardines, there are several shuttle services that will take you almost anywhere, including Adrenalina Tours. If you are taking public transportation heading into Guatemala City from the Antigua side, I recommend getting off at Tikal Futura and getting a taxi (the taxis there are fine, but negotiate the rate before you get in), as Zona 1 really is as sketchy as they say it is.
  • Hiking/Trekking: We have not used our tent, stove or water filter (though sleeping bags come in handy), so leave that stuff at home. There are only a few places where you can tent camp, and if you are going with a guide/tour they will often supply the gear. We have done a lot of hiking without a guide in the Ixil region, but almost anywhere else in the country it is less safe. Check with guiding companies such as Quetzaltrekkers, Ox Adventure Tours, and Guías Ixiles.
  • Clothing: Depends a lot on where you are going – in the lowlands it is incredibly hot, but in the highlands (Nebaj, Xela, Huehue) you will need warm clothes. My advice is to pack light, because almost everywhere you go there are paca stores, which sell used clothes shipped from the U.S. So if you really need another t-shirt or pair of jeans, it won`t be hard to find for cheap. We have seen a lot of travelers carrying gigantic packs, which seems unnecessary (though fun to guess at what could possibly be in there…)
  • Coffee: They drink it weak and full of sugar here, calling it “cafecito”. You can try ordering cafe americano, but it is hit or miss.  More often than not you will be served nescafe instant coffee.
  • Beer: Gallo is the most common, and it is weak but drinkable. Moza is a darker brew and pretty good. Brahva is similar to Gallo, but often cheaper. I recommend trying the michelada if you see it on a menu, it is sort of like a bloody mary with beer. Chelada is a yummy spicier version.
  • Snacks: we highly recommend a small can or package of refried black beans and bread (Jennie likes pan dulce, Ethan prefers pan francesa). The beans are surprisingly good cold. The best junk foods are probably Chiky cookies (especially Chiky Blak) and Quesofritos.  Also Penguinos, which are just like hostess cupcakes.
  • Sarita ice cream is a very pleasing treat. Jennie recommends the mango/peach, Ethan likes the queso y fresa. Try the giant bomba sundae.
  • Food: The most typical meal here involves eggs or meat, served with queso, crema, frijol and plantains. Almost everything comes with a hot stack of tortillas. Lunch is usually the biggest meal, dinner is often smaller and simpler. If you come to Nebaj, be sure to try the boxboles.

I’ll add to this if I think of anything else.  Other Guatemala travelers, feel free to leave any additional advice in the comments!