Ethan is already gone and I am packing up to leave Nebaj in just a few days. I thought I would offer a list of things I have learned living in Guatemala for 3 months that might be useful if you are traveling here.
- The phone number for Taxi Amarilla (yellow cabs) in Guatemala City is wrong in both the Lonely Planet and Moon guides (though the guy with the old number is certainly very patient about it) The current number is: 2470-1515.
- Safety: Friends who grew up in Guatemala City all say that the country has become more dangerous in the last 10 years, and advised me against using public transportation. The US Embassy website has plenty of warnings for travelers with which to scare you properly. I have only really felt worried for my safety here once or twice (due to my own bad decisions), but my advice is that you have to be smart and careful. Don`t make yourself a target by wearing jewelry, expensive camera equipment, etc. I keep my cell phone tucked in one side of my bra and money in the other side, advice from a Peace Corp volunteer after she was mugged and this set-up was the only reason she had money enough to get home.
- Money: An ATM card has been the most useful, with cajeros automaticos (ATM) in all of the major cities and towns. I recommend the yellow 5B cajeros, because they don’t charge an extra fee. I brought traveler’s checks as a back-up and haven’t used them. Credit cards aren’t much use because almost everyone charges an extra fee to use them.
- Transportation: We have used public transportation (micros and chicken buses) for all our travels, and even came around to throwing our stuff on top. While I have not had any problems, we did see a chicken bus completely overturned on the side of the highway and the papers report accidents on a daily basis. If you dislike uncertainty and being packed in like sardines, there are several shuttle services that will take you almost anywhere, including Adrenalina Tours. If you are taking public transportation heading into Guatemala City from the Antigua side, I recommend getting off at Tikal Futura and getting a taxi (the taxis there are fine, but negotiate the rate before you get in), as Zona 1 really is as sketchy as they say it is.
- Hiking/Trekking: We have not used our tent, stove or water filter (though sleeping bags come in handy), so leave that stuff at home. There are only a few places where you can tent camp, and if you are going with a guide/tour they will often supply the gear. We have done a lot of hiking without a guide in the Ixil region, but almost anywhere else in the country it is less safe. Check with guiding companies such as Quetzaltrekkers, Ox Adventure Tours, and Guías Ixiles.
- Clothing: Depends a lot on where you are going – in the lowlands it is incredibly hot, but in the highlands (Nebaj, Xela, Huehue) you will need warm clothes. My advice is to pack light, because almost everywhere you go there are paca stores, which sell used clothes shipped from the U.S. So if you really need another t-shirt or pair of jeans, it won`t be hard to find for cheap. We have seen a lot of travelers carrying gigantic packs, which seems unnecessary (though fun to guess at what could possibly be in there…)
- Coffee: They drink it weak and full of sugar here, calling it “cafecito”. You can try ordering cafe americano, but it is hit or miss. More often than not you will be served nescafe instant coffee.
- Beer: Gallo is the most common, and it is weak but drinkable. Moza is a darker brew and pretty good. Brahva is similar to Gallo, but often cheaper. I recommend trying the michelada if you see it on a menu, it is sort of like a bloody mary with beer. Chelada is a yummy spicier version.
- Snacks: we highly recommend a small can or package of refried black beans and bread (Jennie likes pan dulce, Ethan prefers pan francesa). The beans are surprisingly good cold. The best junk foods are probably Chiky cookies (especially Chiky Blak) and Quesofritos. Also Penguinos, which are just like hostess cupcakes.
- Sarita ice cream is a very pleasing treat. Jennie recommends the mango/peach, Ethan likes the queso y fresa. Try the giant bomba sundae.
- Food: The most typical meal here involves eggs or meat, served with queso, crema, frijol and plantains. Almost everything comes with a hot stack of tortillas. Lunch is usually the biggest meal, dinner is often smaller and simpler. If you come to Nebaj, be sure to try the boxboles.
I’ll add to this if I think of anything else. Other Guatemala travelers, feel free to leave any additional advice in the comments!
I am headed into Nebaj and Rio Azul in a few weeks to help build a school house with Food for the Hungry Canada, and I was wondering what I should pack for clothes for Feb weather? if you could help that would be great.